Almora

Spread along a crescent-shaped ridge between the Koshi and Suyal rivers, Almora has been the cultural and political heart of Kumaon since it was founded by the Chand rajas in the 16th century. Its old town is a warren of cobbled lanes and the famous Lala Bazaar, lined with carved wooden shop-fronts where traders have sold copperware, woollens and the regional sweet bal mithai for generations.

The town has long attracted thinkers and artists. Swami Vivekananda meditated in these hills, the painter and mystic Nicholas Roerich made his home nearby, and the ridge of Kasar Devi — with its temple and famous 'Crank's Ridge' — drew Beat poets, Tibetan Buddhists and seekers from around the world, lured by the unusual energy and the sweeping mountain light.

Almora rewards slow wandering: the Nanda Devi and Chitai Golu Devta temples, the sunset viewpoint of Bright End Corner, and a cuisine and craft tradition richer than almost anywhere else in the Kumaon hills. It also makes an excellent hub for day trips to Jageshwar, Binsar, Kausani and Ranikhet.

March–June and September–November. Summers are mild; winters are cold with occasional snow.